Trip to Nepal
October 2006
Day 14- Muktinath to Kagbeni

The trail from Muktinath to Kagbeni was very easy, continuing to shed altitude but much more slowly.  We were entering a breadbasket area of Nepal, known for its high winds.  From 10am until 5pm, the wind blows very hard, maybe 40Mph.  How the locals stand it is beyond me - in the winter it must be so hard.  This is where the Kaligandaki River starts.  It's a very wide river, but only during the rainy season is it filled with water from bank to bank.  Now it was channels in the riverbed.

I stayed in the Annapurna Hotel here, which was spacious with nice polished wood and again my own bathroom.  The guests included a Canadian woman who settled in Pokhara 15 years ago, who spoke at length about what was right and what was wrong with Nepal.

Right

Wrong

On the way to Kagbeni, the Poplars were changing color, for an unexpected touch of Autumn.
The clouds often seemed to be at our height or even below us.
Looking down at Kagbeni while approaching from above.  The river bed is at the upper left part of the picture.
From the Nepal Ministry of Tourism, thank you - a map of the town and a listing of the places to stay - not drawn to scale.
The wheat in this picture has not been cut; it's been blown down by the wind.  The riverbed is mostly exposed except for some channels.  I wanted to go walking down there, but was told that a permit was needed as it was a protected area.

I never found out for sure what was protected, but the Kaligandaki is a source for shaligrams - 200million year old fossils that have religious overtones.

The main road into town.
Taken around the middle of town, where a stream runs down to the river.
The literacy rate in Nepal is low, and there's an international effort to keep children in school longer.  I spoke to an NGO who said they were very well-funded and were making inroads.  This is a school room in Kagbeni.  It had two posters: one of the English alphabet, one of the Sanskrit alphabet.  But that was it - benches to sit on, benches to write on, not much light coming in (this was taken with a flash).  It's so different than a classroom which I walked into recently in the US, which had so many stimulating items.
These goats would be taken out of town in the morning to feed and return in the late afternoon.
   

Day 15 - Kagbeni to Marpha